Creativity abounds at Vinology

Thursday, June 08, 2006

BY JULIE HALPERT
News Special Writer

Vinology Wine Bar and Restaurant, which opened May 1, has made huge changes to its space, the former Mayer-Schairer office supply business. There's no trace of the old retail establishment, though some features of the 1908 building, like the exposed brick and tin ceiling, have been restored.

Vinology is owned by Kristin Jonna, whose father, John Jonna, founded Merchant of Vino. Her partners are John Padmos and Greg Lobdell, as well as Jon Carlson and Chet Czapalica, who both own Grizzly Peak Brewing Company.

The restaurant is huge - 7,500 square feet on two levels. It has the deliberate look of a wine cellar, with dark wood floors, low lighting, and assorted nooks and crannies. There are lots of tables tucked away in private spaces, both upstairs and down below, where both the tasting room and retail wine store, called "the cellar,'' are located. My favorite space was the "bubble room,'' so named because there are big plastic bubbles all over the ceiling. Sheer white, floor length curtains separate each of the tables.

This renovation, two years in the making, is the product of much creativity.

Not surprisingly, wine is the highlight here. Vinology offers 150 wines by the bottle and 50 by the glass. Prices per glass range from $6-$18, though the average is $9. Bottles are priced from $20 to $400.The goal is a wine list that includes all of the major wine-producing regions. The restaurant also aims to keep its list constantly rotated and fresh, so "you'll always find something new when you come in,'' Jonna said.

The restaurant serves foods intended to complement the numerous wines. There's an array - 13 in all - of "small plates,'' light dishes in small portions that are an ideal match for a glass of wine.

This cuisine has a delightful, inventive feel. I found that what Vinology does best is the side dishes and smaller plates. I especially liked the use of sweet tarragon in the absolutely mouth-watering creamy tomato soup and the Bellwether Farms ricotta gnocchi. The gnocchi, tender pieces of potato pasta lightly covered in a mild sauce, with morel mushrooms, was my favorite.

As for the main plates, results were mixed. The best part of these plates were beautifully prepared, unusual side dishes, like boniato custard, sweet corn soufflé, wine poached rhubarb and creamy polenta. With the exception of the honey glazed duck breast, a standout, the main plates weren't quite as good on these early visits. The crispy skin arctic char, though fresh, was coated in a too lemony, lip-puckering, citrus soy syrup. Scallops were slightly undercooked and lacked enough of the advertised hazelnut flavoring. The lamb was a bit bland.

We perked up, though, at the sight of desserts, which were, without exception, creative and delicious. My favorite was the pots de crème, essentially chocolate mouse, which was served in a tiny white teacup and had a rich, thick consistency and a heavenly chocolate taste, along with a nice topping of homemade whipped cream. Continuing the wine theme, diners are presented with wonderful dark chocolate covered grapes at the meal's conclusion.

The servers on both our visits were quite enthusiastic, though on the second visit, service was generally slow.

Even so, there's no doubt in my mind that Vinology is a strong new downtown destination.